BETTA ANTUTA 8-10cm PAIR ONLY

Atunta Betta (also spelled Antuta or Betta sp. ‘Antuta/Bulungan’) is a large, striking wild betta from the Betta unimaculata complex. It comes from highland streams in Bulungan Regency, North Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo), not typical stagnant swamps.

Males often show a metallic “helmet” or mask on the head with iridescent blue-green scales, a long, slender body, and a larger body than many domestic bettas. They are paternal mouthbrooders. These fish are more active and current-loving than standard B. splendens. They inhabit clear, oxygen-rich, shallow rocky highland/midland streams in the Kayan River system. The water features gentle to moderate flow, leaf litter, submerged wood/roots for cover, and dappled forest light. This species thrives with clean, flowing, stable conditions—more like a stream biotope than a typical betta bowl.

TANK SET UP: Minimum 20–40L for a single fish; better 40-80+ (or 80x30cm base) for a pair or small group. Larger tanks help with stability and their size/activity. Provide caves, driftwood, roots, and some plants (e.g., Java fern, Anubias, Cryptocoryne) for hiding and territory. Floating plants diffuse light. Include moderate flow (they like current). Secure lid—they are strong jumpers. Leaf litter (beech/oak) adds a natural feel but keeps moderate levels to avoid darkening the water too much.

TANK MATE: Best species-only or with careful tankmates. Males/females can pair but monitor.

Suitable tank mates, you could introduce Corydoras catfish (like Pygmy Corys) or small, peaceful loaches or small, peaceful tetras (such as Ember Tetras or Neon Tetras) and dwarf rasboras.

FILTRATION: Gentle but continuous filtration is key to mimic stream flow and high oxygenation—aim for 4–5x tank volume turnover per hour. Sponge filters or adjustable powerheads work well; avoid strong currents, as they can stress them.

MAINTENANCE: Ammonia/nitrite (must be 0), nitrates (<20–30 ppm ideal). Mature biological filtration helps. Frequent partial changes (20–30% weekly or more) to maintain stability and purity, and prevent bacterial issues (especially around head pores) and keep parameters steady—well-oxygenated, clean, clear water with gentle to moderate current (not stagnant).

LIGHTING: Use subdued/dim lighting.

FEEDING: Offer high-protein foods like live/frozen bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, or small earthworms. They accept pellets (e.g., insect-based), but vary the diet to achieve the best colour/condition. Feed sparingly to avoid obesity

NOTE: Acclimate slowly (drip method) as wild fish. They are sensitive to poor water quality/infections. Breeding is possible in stable setups (male mouthbroods 14–21 days). Captive breeding helps reduce pressure on wild populations.