The Asian bumblebee catfish, Pseudomystus siamensis, is long and more robust, with cleaner yellow-and-black bands. Originates from Asia. They are nocturnal bottom dwellers. Daytime hiding is normal, not a sign of illness.
TANK SET UP: Use fine sand or smooth gravel. Give each fish a tight, fully dark cave. Black PVC pipe, ceramic tubes, and gaps under driftwood work better than open rock piles (they prefer wood over stone). Bumblebee catfish appreciate a dim tank with floating plants or tall stems so the bottom stays shaded. Secure lid —they can jump when startled.
NOTE: They are effectively scaleless and can burn if they rest against a heater.
TANK MATE: They need midwater fish that are too big to eat — medium barbs, rasboras, larger tetras, peaceful loaches in a roomy tank, or calm cichlids.
AVOID: neon tetras, guppies, and cherry shrimp. They squabble with other bottom catfish, especially their own kind, unless the tank is long and every fish has its own cave.
IMPORTANT: Nighttime croaking can mean territory fights; separate them if fins get damaged.
FILTRATION: They do not need strong flow. Look for a filter system that cycles the entire volume of your aquarium roughly 4 to 6 times per hour. If you use a more powerful filter, adjust the output or use a spray bar to diffuse the current.
MAINTENANCE: Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0, and nitrate preferably under 20–30 ppm. Weekly water changes of about 25–30%.
FEEDING: Both are meat-leaning. In the wild, they take insects, crustaceans, and small invertebrates. In the tank, they learn to eat sinking carnivore pellets or wafers, plus frozen or live bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, mysis, chopped prawn, and earthworms.
Feed after lights-out at first. Most will later come out for an evening feed.














